For a good while now, my friend Felicity and I have been exchanging letters–her from Queensland, Australia, and me, from here on the North Shore. Lately, we’ve been sharing childhood stories, describing things that are commonplace in our locales, but seem exotic to one another.
Unlike my snowy Chicago Christmases, for example, Felicity’s holidays in Australia were hot and sunny, including a 6-week school break when she and her siblings blissfully played outdoors running near the gum trees, but careful to avoid the spitfire caterpillars that gave nasty stings.
Gum trees? Stinging spitfire caterpillars? So freaking cool!
So, yes–you can imagine how fun it was to get Felicity’s most recent letter including stories of, and the recipe for– her grandmother’s sweet and spicy tomato onion relish. Made from tomatoes her Nanna Fenton grew, it was another of Felicity’s sweet summer memories–one we can now use to preserve the remaining bounty of our own summer season.
A classic in Australia, the relish has a slightly different flavor profile than tomato onion relishes grannies made here.
Researching, I learned that while they share British roots, Australian and American tomato relishes evolved in different directions. From the late 19th century through much of the 20th century, Australian tomato relishes were historically made with malt vinegar—called “brown vinegar” in home recipes, and seasoned with mustard powder, curry powder, and cayenne pepper. Here in America, cooks of the same era used apple cider vinegar and baking spices such as clove, cinnamon and allspice.
Malt vinegar is more savory than apple cider vinegar. And the mustard/curry/cayenne combo is zippier than clove and cinnamon. Interestingly, Nanna Fenton softened hers a bit by including chopped apple in her recipe.
I loved the result.
But if you prefer a fruitier result, you can substitute apple cider vinegar for the malt vinegar entirely. Either way, you have to let the relish mature for several weeks in your pantry or fridge to mellow out. The vinegar will become less aggressive, and the flavors of the ingredients will meld for a more balanced sweet and spicy tang.
Felicity and her family enjoy the relish with roast beef sandwiches. It’s also good with cheese and crackers or piled on a burger.