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Mexican-Style No-Mayo Coleslaw with Lime

Coleslaw doesn't get a lot of time in the spotlight. typically made with a moyonaise-based dressing, it's the standard accompaniment for sandwiches and fried fish and chicken. Early dutch immigrants brought cabbage seeds with them, and the hearty vegetable quickly became a staple.

 

Writing in "One Big Table" (Simon & Schuster, $50) cookbook author Molly O'Neill says the word "coleslaw" first appeared in "American Cookery," a cookbook written by Amelia Simmons in 1796. The term is thought to be a deviation of "koolsla," the Dutch name for cabbage salad.

 

As O'Neill points out, there a lots of variations on the basic recipe. Acids may range from vinegar to citrus juice, some call for creme fraiche or whipped cream in lieu of mayonnaise, and some include sweet addtions such as pineapple, raisins or shredded carrots. Reader Phil Josephs requested a version made with lime juice and Dijon mustard.

 

In "How to Cook Everything Vegetarian," (John Wiley & Sons, $35), Mark Bittman includes this mayonnaise-free coleslaw that includes Dijon mustard and lime juice with grated carrots, cilantro, and parsley adding color to the coleslaw crunch.

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Makes 8 servings

For the slaw:

  • 2 Tbsp Dijon mustard, or to taste
  • 2 Tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice
  • 1 small clove garlic, minced
  • 1 Tbsp minced fresh chile (optional)
  • 1/4 cup peanut or extra-virgin olive oil
  • 6 cups cored and shredded Napa, Savoy, green and/or red cabbage
  • 2 medium carrots, peeled and grated
  • 1/3 cup diced scallion, more or less
  • Salt and freshly-ground black pepper
  • 1/4 cup minced cilantro
Instructions
  1. Whisk mustard, lime juice, garlic and chile together in a bowl. Add the oil a little at a time, whicksing all the while to emulsify.
  2. Combine cabbage, carrots and scallion and toss with dressing. Season to taste with salt and pepper and refrigerate until ready to serve.

 

For best flavor, Bittman suggests making the slaw at least an hour before serving. For a crisper slaw: cookbook author Martha Storey (500 Treasured Country Recipes; Storey Books, $18.95) recommends immersing shredded cabbage in ice water for one hour. (Then drain, dry and incorporate into the recipe

 
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